Woven fabric and art of weaving the same



Sept.V 9, 1930. H F, SHEMAN v 1,775,1144

` 'WOVEN FABRIC AND ART OF WEAVING THE SAN-E Filed Jan. 22, 1926 2sheets-Shen 1 f Y 4 I i j@ 5 y x5 CZ 1%5 @vraagg- Sept. 9, 1930. H. F.SHERMAN 1,775,144l

WOVEN FABRICAND ART OF WEAVING THE SAME Filed Jan. 22, 192e 2 sneetsheu2 Patented Sept 9, 1930 UNITED STATES PATENT CFFICE wovnnrannr'c Ann Aaror wnAvINe 'rrn SAME Application filed January 22, '1926. Serial No.82,986.

This invention relates to woven fabrics of the single-ply, unitary orsingle-shed type having certain new and useful characteristics,including great density, relative thick- 5 ness in proportion to thethickness of the individual yarns comprising it, a symmetrical structurefree from unbalanced or distorting stresses, a surface texturecomparatively line, smooth, level and free from ridges; and hav- 1o ingwefts in a single plane lying straight in the fabric substantiallywithout undulation. Because of these and other features this typeoffabric displays the quality oflinherent and A fabric of the kind inquestion is, moreover,-

cl'iaracterized by capacity to have like surface l textures on eachface, the said surface textures vbeing plain or patternless, in whichsimilar dispositions of visible yarn formations recur at microscopicintervals, and without a symmetrical or preferentiall arrange- ,mentfrom formation to formation in respect v to incident light; andcapableof having any desired pattern by variation of surface appearancesof warp runs. on either or both faces. The uniform surface textureusually referred may be that of the relatively thin a ric known asbroadcloth, and much used for shirts, shirtwaists, and other garmentsfor men and women. Since the surface resemblance of this cloth tobroadcloth, bothl in texture and in gauge of its component 40 yarns,when woven of yarns of the lnd cus'- tomarily used for broadcloth, iscomplete, this fabric is peculiarly suitable for the stiffer parts ofgarments customarily made of broadcloth, such as neckbands, collars,cuffs, pocket and placket facings, and other finishing edges andattachments. This fabric is also peculiarly useful for collars and cuffsintended to be worn inan unstarched or lightly starched condition, theweave structure of the 'fabric ycontributing by"density, capacity forresistance to shrinking and stretching, and retentive stiffness ofshapes given by cutting or sewing or hot pressing, qualities peculiarlyuseful in and for such garments.

A principal object of this invention is to provide a fabric and a modeof making it by' the single weave system which shall possess thecharacteristics vadverted to above. I have, moreover, provided a methodof concatenating the yarns composing the fabric into a fabriccharacterized by simplicity, by the avoidance of complexity of movementof any system of the yarns in respect to any other system, and theavoidance of delay by repetition of picks without let-olf; and thereforerendering it possible to weave the fabric on-ordinary types of looms atas high speeds as single fabrics having the same number of picks of weftper linear unit of measure', and at a higher speed than any fabric ofwhich I am awa-re containingso great a count of j aggregate warp andweft per unit area.- This naturally results in practice in capacity tomake the fabrics at labor costs substantially no greater than in theproduction of plain-woven or single fabrics of lesser thickness, whichdo not have the qualities adverted to above or other valuablequalifications for use of the cloth of this invention.

The invention will be described with the aid of the accompanyingdrawings, in which Fig. l. is a perspective, showing one edge of thefabric .in warp-wisev or` longitudinal cross section, and partly brokenaway to .show the disposition of the straight wefts in the completedfabric; A

Fig. 2 is an analytical section in the direction of warps, correspondingto a portion of y Fig. l;

Fig. 3 is a section on the line 3-3 of Fig. 2; f Fig. 4 is a section o nthe line 4-4 of Fig. 2; Fig. 5 is a fragmentary face view of eitherture;

Fig. 6 is a weave diagram showing one repeat comprising four endsof warpand four picks of weft and' also showing the drawingin draft; and

Fig. 7 is a diagram of successive cross sections at successive pickscovering several lonvface of the fabric showing the surface tex- Ieighty 40/2s count yarns to, each linear inch;

these proportions and yarn sizes are 'obviously relative, and areintended to be varied in accordance with the desired density, weight,resistance to bending, and other factors of .the completed fabric. Thewarps 10a and 10b may be alike or different, but 'preferably are l`k .llfthewar s'ma be su lied un-`. a l e 1 o p y pp vWhile I refer to wefts,it will be underder like tension from asingle beam under control of lanysuitable let-olf device.

A preferable relation of the warps to each other andthe reed of theloomin which they are to be woven is sui-ciently indicated in Figs. 3and 4 in which the dents of the reed are indicated by dotted lines dindicating that three pairs having members 10a and 10b respectively ofwar s are included between the same pair of ree dents if desired, fouror more pairs or only two pairs may be carried between a pair of reeddents.

', Referring to Fig. 2, the warps 10a are so engaged with the weft assystematically to confine warps 102A to recurrent engagement withrecurrent members of the weft series by passage around the weft` andreturn toward the same face of the fabric in a bight embrac ing thisweft. The warps 1G" similarly en gage the'same wefts as .the warps 1()ainthe same recurrent arrangement by passage a around the weft from theother` face of the fabric.l The recurrent picks of weftso engaged by therespective warps 10a and 10b are shown as the even numbered picks 12, 1416, 18, 20, 22,- etc., of an indefinite series, t ese .wefts being` laidby motion .of the shuttle, for example, from right to left. Becaus voftheir symmetrical relation tofthe bights vpassed around them of Athewarps 10a predominantly shed to one face and of the warps 10"predominantly shed to the other face, it will be convenient to refer tothis recurrent system of wefts as key wefts. They lock together mutualpairs respectively containing a warp 10 and warp 10b.

It. is characteristic of the fabric that the remaining and interveningwefts of the odd rnumbered series 13, 15, 17 19, 21, etc., are engagedwith, in contact with and surrounded y the-warps 10a and the warps 10b,but do not engage. bights formed by passage around them of any warp. Onefunction of these intervening wefts` of the odd numbered series inrelation to the warps engaging them is to maintain in tight, fixed andpermanent relation to the key wefts the bights of the warps 101'and 10b-Wrapped around them, and another function is to cause the bends of therically shed warps the respective straight wefts of the odd and evennumbered'series. These relations will be evident from Fig.`2 of thedrawing.v

One result of the arrangements indicated is that all of the wefts, bothodd and even series,

`lie in a median plane bisecting the distance between the surface planesof the fabric.

stood that odd and even series -are the same yarn laid by respectivepassages of the same shuttle see Fig. 7. p

The recommended mode of interlocking the wefts with the ,warpsa for theuseful effects above mentioned is evident from the drawings; that warp`10a nearest to the observer in Fig. 2 is so shed by regular motions ofthe yarn as to pass under the key weft 14 and to pass over the wefts-15,16, and 17, and againto pass under theweft 18, and so observer in Fig.'2 is passed under the weft 14, under the weft 15, over the weft16under lthe wefts17, 18 and 19, over the weft 20, etc. These two warpsare in the same longitudinal plane transverse to the wefts.

Considering n ow the bights of the warp 10kI nearest the observer, itwill be observed' that they are in contact with the respective key warps14, 18, 22; and that the warp .10h nearest the observer being inthe samelongitudinal plane perpendicular to the general elitent of the fabric assaid bights lies upon t em.

fabric the warps 10b are depressed below the Simultaneously, thatwarp10b nearest the y Therefore, to form the bottom face of thev medianplane of the cloth in closely-bound l and tightly-laid runs having theirapices at or near the points y.

It will be obvious that the warp 10 similarly presents at the points y,y exactly similar but, symmetrically opposite .elevated closely-boundfloats at the points where the yarn 10Et nearest to the observeroverlies the blghts y2, y2, formed by the yarn 10b nearest the observerupon'passing under the wefts 13, 14, 15, over the weft 16, under thewefts' 17, 18, 19, over the weft 20 andunder the' weft 21, etc.

Let us now consider the relation of that warp 10b which passes underweft 13, over the weft 14, under the weft 15, .under the'r bight m2 ofthe corresponding warp 10a, under the weft 17, over the key weft 18,under the lmentioned have interlocked in the bights :v2

with the key Wefts 16 and 20. 4Between these places they lie above thebights of one of the Warps b at the points ma, w3, m3.

Therefore at the points marked y or ya the fabric is thick insymmetricalrelation to theplane defined bythe centres of the Wefts in adegree measured on each side of that plane by one-half the thickness ofthe Wefts, the'full thickness at the point marked m of the'warps 10B,and the full thickness at the point marked y of the Warps 10b. Y Thefabric is thick to the extent of five diameters of its component yarns.

Lookingat a fabric in section through the key weft 14. see Fig. 3, andcomparing this With Fig. 2, the reason Why the runs underlie the bightsw and the reason Why ghe runs m3, y overlie the bights y2 of the yarns1()b will be clear.` The crossing engagements of the legs of the bightsm and runs'y with the legs of bightsaf:2 and runs g3 as will be apparentfrom Fig. 3, provide What amounts in effect to a reed dent or crossedlease in relation to the next pair of yarns of the system. The surfaceruns of the warps 10 and lObare therefore obliged to stay on top, of thebights taken around the key Wefts 14, 16, 18, etc., not having-roomLforlateral movement out of this position.

Referring now to Figs. 6 and 7 itwillbe r observed that the pattern ofwhich one repeat is indicated at R, Fig. 7 Arepeats every four pickslongitudinally and every four warp-ends laterally. On alternate picksthe x Warp pairs 10a and 10b are shed apart for passage of the. weft,and in the intervening picksv these pairs are shed as .units alternatelyover and under the Warp, the second and yfourth pick havingdifferentpairs up. The surface pattern, Fig. 5, shows Warps up overthree and under one weft. It will be obvious that the pairs containingWarps 10a and 10b respectively are representative of multiple'groups ofWarps alternatively shed as a unit and 'l separated for penetration by aweft or wefts.

When Weaving is in a sufficiently massive loom with a. heavy beat-upagainst a let-off functioning well to retain the relatively numerousWarps, the condition of balance in the fabric is such `as to limitcapacity to stretch Warp-Wise and Weftew'ise. practicallyl equally. Thisis amply accounted for by the straight-lying Wefts, see Figs. 1, 3 and4', and

the limited possibilities of elongationj af- 'forded by thekey-Weft-bound Warp system, which can not stretch longitudinally Withoutplacing the included bight-and-Weft structure under compression betweenthe interlocked runs of the Warps lying on the respective faces. If, asin many of the uses for this fabric, Warp-Wise and Weft-wise strains aresimultaneously to be resisted, maintenance of the warps in unstretchablyinterlocked form is aided by the longitudinallytense state of the weft,particularly the key Wefts constituting the even-numbered series in Fig.2.

Itwill be obvious to those skilled in Weaving or the manufacture ofclothing, airplanes,

rubberized fabrics, bandages and splints,

boots and shoes, Suspenders, corsets, carpets,

pressing cloths, filter-press and dust and fume filtering fabrics; hats,tents, sails and aWn- V- ings, upholstery fabrics, artificial leatherand lcloth-covered books, trunks, boxes, bags and receptacles that theherein-described properties of this cloth are available for improvementof the materials of their said and other industries without changeexcept adaptation of gauge and of the kind of component textile--cordage adapted to the use in hand.

I' claim:

1. Art of Weaving thick fabrics of limited extensibility from relativelythin yarns comprising,shedding alternate multiple groups of Warpstogether and oppositely'in respect to systematically recurrent picks ofweft, and opening shed between members of said multiple group of warpsfor passage of intervening picks of the weft While holding the membersof groups of Warps shed together in the same plane to overlie each othertransversely of the cloth.

-2.,A1:t of weaving thick fabrics of limited extensibilit fromrelatively thin yarns con1 prising she ding alternate pairs of vvarpsoppositely in respect to systematically recurrent picks of weft, andopening shed between the members of said pairs of Warps for passage ofintervening picks of the weft while holding the members of groups ofwarps shed togetherI in the same plane to overlie each othertransversely of the cloth. l

3. Art of Weaving thick fabrics of limited extensibility from relativelythin yarns enmprising shedding alternate multiple groups of Warpsoppositely in respect to-alternate picks of weft, and opening shedbetween members of said multiple group of Warps for passage ofintervening picks of the weft While .holding the members of groups ofWarps shed together in the same plane to overlie each other transverselyof the cloth. 1

'picks of the vveft While holding the membersv of groups of Warps shedtogether in the same plane to overlie each other transversely of the'cloth.

5. Art of Weaving comprising as s tep's providing a Warp containing arelatively "great number of yarns in each unit of linear measurelaterally of the fabric to be vmade com'- parably with thepossible-number ofpicks of Weftin each such unit of measure lontudinally of the cloth, dividing the Warp or shedding in multiplegroups, and acting upon each such group of Warps at regularly recurrentpicks of Weft to divide each multiple' group for passage 'of the Weft'atthat pick vvvhileholding the members of groups of shed for passage ofWeftin said plane at Warps shed togetherin the same plane to overlieeach other transversely of the cloth.

6. Art of Weaving comprising regularly shedding pairs of. warps inrespect t a median weft plane and in respect to lregularly recurrentpicks of key Weft in said` plane, each alternate pair ofWarpspassingbeneath and the intervening pairs passing above saidrecurrent key picks, and causing the members of said pairs to be openedas a picks alternatingwith said key picks While holding the membersof'groups o f War ps shed together in thesame plane to overlie eachother transversely of the cloth.

7. Single-ply thick fabric of the unitary or single shed type havinggreat density, relative thickness in proportion to the thickness of theindividual yarns comprising it, a .s mmetrical'structure free fromimbalance or distorting stresses, and having in respect to its medianplane, 1n relation to recurrent key Wefts and in the direction of itsthickness a lplurality of keywveft-interlocked bights over laid by Warpruns, said Warp runs together constituting the surfaces of the fabric.

8. Single-ply Woven fabric having therein Wefts in a median plane andsurface runs of Warps interlocked With Wefts at each end, .andsuperposed upon the interlocking bights' of similar Warps of the othersurface.

9. Single-ply thick fabric having in relation to recurrent .Wefts in thesame plane `and in the direction of its thickness a plurality ofWeft-interlockedbights overlaid by Warp rims, said Warp runstogetherconstituting the surfaces of the fabric.

l0. Single-ply thick fabric having wefts, and pairs of Warps lying'inthe same longituing from the direction of opposite facesof 'the` fabric,certain of the Wefts intervening between said pairs of Warps.

l2. Single-ply thick lfabric having Wefts confined to the median planeof the fabric and pairs of Warps lying in the same longitudinal plane ofthe fabric transverse to the Wefts, said warps severally having bights4surrounding a weft and respectively extending from the direction ofopposite faces of the fabric, said Warps penetrating'said me.-

dian plane at recurrent weft intervals.

13. Single-ply thick fabric having Wefts confined to the median plane ofthe fabric and pairs of Warps lying in the samelongi'- tudinal plane ofthe fabric transverse to the Wefts, said Warps severally having bightssurrounding a weft and respectively eXtendf ing -from the direction ofoppositefaces of the fabric, said Warps penetrating said median plane atrecurrent Weft intervals, members of alternate pairs of said Warpspenetrating said median plane in opposite direc-` tions at thev spacesbetween the same pairs of Wefts.

14.' Single-'ply thick fabric characterized by symmetrical- Warp andweft structure, the

Wefts being confined to afmedian plane, the

'surfaces of the fabric each exhibiting short loW alternate v'vefts butbeing separated into individual Warps by the intervening wefts,

- the intervening pairs of Warps following the same order but appearingo n the reverse face at the said alternate Wefts Signed by me at Boston,Massachusetts, this 20th day of January, 1926.

-HAROLD F. SHERMAN- dinal plane of the fabric transverse to the Wefts,said Warps severally having bights surrounding a weft andrespectively-extending from Vthe direction of opposite faces of thevfabric.

K11. Single-ply thick fabric having Wefts and pairs of Warps lying inthe same longitudinal plane of the fabric transverse to' the vas.

Wefts, said Warps severally having bights surrounding a weft andrespectively extend-

